I Have Fallen: A Near Death Climbing Accident in the Canadian Rockies“If you ride like lightning, you’re gonna crash like thunder” - The Place Beyond the Pines   After waking up from a nightmare I slowly came into a reality that was far worse than what I had just experienced. “Did I get hit by a rock?” I asked several times and kept forgetting each time I asked. For the life of me I had no idea what country I was in or what I was doing. Incredible dizziness and much disorientation made it difficult to stand up. I was covered in blood and knew I was in a serious s…
Winter Ambition: Whitehorse in a DayAfter my Burgundy Spire Accident I had to give up mountaineering for a while. When I finally recovered enough to hike, a small run would be enough to re-injure my knee once more forcing me to be very careful with getting back in shape. With rare winter conditions it was painful to watch as many sunny days went by. I knew that if I wanted a shot at a spectacular climb I would have to wait until the perfect opportunity. Michael and I contacted some buddies of mine, before long we had a solid team…
Fragile on the Edge: Climbing Burgundy Spire on Friday the 13th "The fault, dear Brutus, is not in our stars, but in ourselves, that we are underlings." - William Shakespear "Man propose, nature dispose" - Gary Paulsen After climbing for four days in a row I came home feeling exhausted and dehydrated. Matt Lemke calls me by saying "want to climb Sloan Peak via the rock route". It was a tempting offer, but I declined due to being fatigued. Then Shortly afterwards I was offered a trip so ridiculous that I couldn't refuse.…
South Face of Little Annapurna: An Unexpected Climb Matt Lemke and I did this trip as a spur of the moment. Originally we planned on climbing Sherpa Peak via the North Ridge. Matt however did not want to have to hike once again along the Colchuck Lake trail and wasn't feeling in the mood for climbing Sherpa. So we settled for climbing Little Annapurna via the south face which is a 5.6 (or 5.5) rock climb. So both the trip and the destination came unexpectedly along with some other surprises along the way. This trip had a long approach, brush…
Going for the Gusto: A Two Day Climb on the Torment Forbidden Traverse "I have learned, that if one advances confidently in the direction of his dreams, and endeavors to live the life he has imagined, he will meet with a success unexpected in common hours." - Henry David Thoreau The Torment Forbidden Traverse is the most extensive rock climbing route I've done to date. While not very technically inclined, it consists of a large quantity of class 4 and low 5th climbing and of course some mid 5th moves. It is said that every mountaineering skill you&…